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Discovering Madeira on a Mountain Bike

Reassembling our MTBs at our AirBnB in Machico

It’s been 20 fabulous months, but now my travelling time is over. I’m back in Chambéry, trying to get my own game projects going, working from home. It can’t be without some smaller trips though and so Christian and I decided to do a mountain biking trip in November. Since the weather is not that stable in central Europe at this time of the year, we started searching elsewhere. Corsica, Mallorca, the Canaries? Could we do a trip across a whole island or even around it? In the end we discovered and settled on Madeira. We’ve had an adventurous and spectacular week and I hope that this article can bring that across.

 

300km off the African coast and 600km off the Portuguese coast, this archipelago has an all year long mild climate, perfect for cycling and hiking. The main island is marked by its steep coastline and high peaks of up to 1862m, so we expected a lot of up and down. Our idea was to cover the whole island, but not miss out on the good parts in the central mountains. We would take only a small backpack with us and stay at a different place every night. Every evening we would plan the next day ahead. Here’s a photo overview of all the 6 days of mountain biking fun:

 

The route we ended up with (counter-clockwise)
Day 1: We got a lift up to 1600m. What’s forbidden here? Motorcycles or bicycles? We continued with our plan anyway.
Day 1: We got a lift up to 1600m. What’s forbidden here? Motorcycles or bicycles? We continued with our plan anyway.

We started with the hardest part: The PR1.3 hiking trail “Vereda da Encumeada” along the highest and longest ridge of the island. 13km. 1650m up and 2200 m down. Was this a good idea?

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We started with the hardest part: The PR1.3 hiking trail “Vereda da Encumeada” along the highest and longest ridge of the island. 13km. 1650m up and 2200 m down. Was this a good idea?
The scenery was absolutely stunning!
The scenery was absolutely stunning!
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The difficulty was stunning too. About 40% pushing the bike, 40% carrying the bike and 20% riding. That’s not quite mountain biking…
A very exhausting day
A very exhausting day
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Day 2: It started with our first Levada. The whole island is covered with these irrigation channels, that offer hikers and bikers flat trails often high up in the mountains. Sometimes there are tunnels, too.

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At the central plateau “Paul da Serra” the scenery changes drastically. Here started my favourite trail of the whole week.
At the central plateau “Paul da Serra” the scenery changes drastically. Here started my favourite trail of the whole week, the Fanal.
Our full setup
Our full setup

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Day 3 started with the official Ultrabike trail and a super steep ascent out of Porto Moniz
Day 3 started with the official Ultrabike trail and a super steep ascent out of Porto Moniz

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On the fantastiv Avalanche downhill trail
On the fantastic Avalanche downhill trail
We stayed in Jardim do Mar that night at the beautiful Maktub guesthouse.
We stayed in Jardim do Mar that night at the beautiful Maktub guesthouse.

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Day 4: After a foggy downhill ride, some more levadas and a closed downhill section, we came our next beautiful hotel. It felt a bit too luxury for us dirty mountain bikers.
Day 4: After a foggy downhill ride, some more levadas and a closed downhill section, we came to our next beautiful hotel. It felt a bit too luxury for us dirty mountain bikers.
At the Cabo Girao Cliffs Skywalk
Day 5: At the Cabo Girao Cliffs Skywalk

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An urban levada on the way to Funchal
An urban levada on the way to Funchal
Funchal...
Funchal…
Day 6: Levadas and rain forest trails. My second favourite of the week!
Day 6: Levadas and rain forest trails. My second favourite of the week!

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Back in Machico. The end.
Back in Machico. The end.

 

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